Porters carry gear and don't normally speak English. Guides do not carry gear and speak English. Some guides, if they're not with a trekking company, will also be a porter, but you'll have to determine this before you go. Porters can be really great, and if I go back I'd probably get one. If you hire a guide independently, tell him you'd also like a porter and he'll round one up. Ensure that your porter has adequate protection from the weather as porters earn less than guides and therefore have less money to spend on clothing.
If you arrive in Kathmandu, about a hundred people will ask you if you want a trekking guide. Almost all of these people work for trekking agencies or the like. The one good thing with going with a trekking agency is that you have a pretty good idea that your guide will be more honest than a complete stranger off the street, and his English will probably be better. Albeit, trekking agencies can really put it to you when it comes to cost. And when it comes to honesty, the Nepali people are some of the most honest people I've ever met, so this really isn't an issue. Another way to do it is to just go to the start of the trail and ask around for a local guide. This is what I did and how I found Chandra Gurung. The benefits of doing it this way is that all of your money goes directly to the guide, and not a trekking agency, so you can feel better about putting your money where it's truly needed. Also, you will pay a lot less this way, so it's a win-win. You will oftentimes find guides who are starting to branch out on their own and will therefore do a lot more than a normal guide would from a trekking agency. I hit the jackpot when I found Chandra, he was truly a blessing. Everyone on the trail that had their guide told me they loved Chandra and they wish they had him. He lives in the village at the start of the Circuit (Besi Sahar) and is a guide by trade, originally starting out as a porter. If you're looking for a guide, I HIGHLY recommend him. He knew all the villages, distances, temperature changes, etc. He also had a smile on his face the whole time and even sang Nepali trekking songs upon request. Not to mention, he's just a really great person. He's done the circuit about 15 times, as well as other treks.
Some people decide to not take a guide and do the trek on their own. This is
entirely possible, but Nepal is one of the poorest countries in the world, and
you will support it so much more by hiring one. I really think everyone should
take a guide as it puts more money into the country that desperately needs it.
Also, by having a guide you take that step of immersing yourself into the
culture and you'll learn more about the people and the country. My guide
pointed out things to me that would have gone completely unknown had he not been
there. Not to mention, a guide speaks the language, so you'll have an
interpreter if you ever want to talk with any of the locals, or if you run into
any problems.
If you do hire an independent guide, BE SURE to interview him first! Make sure they show you their clothes, backpack, shoes, and socks. I interviewed one guy and he showed me a cotton denim jean jacket as his main jacket. He then showed me thin cotton socks with holes in them as his socks and his shoes had holes in them too. He said he wouldn't be cold but I would not put him in that situation. The Nepali people do not like to disappoint you so they will tell you what you want to hear, that's just their culture. Some guides have references, so ask to see them, but keep in mind that not all of them do. Chandra did not have any, but I had such a good feeling about him. If you hire an independent guide and he's great, write a reference letter for him at the end of the trek. Also, it's customary to tip your guide at the end of the trek. The amount is up to you, but a days wage for every week of trekking I believe is the normal rule. Of course, some circumstance might have you wanting to tip them more, and that is absolutely o.k. Be careful though, don't tip the guy too much as this feeds inflation and in the end ruins it for everyone.
Chandra Gurung
V.D.C. - Gounda
2 Salme
Zone - Gandaki
Dist - Lamjung
West Nepal
or
Chandra Gurung
Hotel Sayadatri & Roof Top Restaurant
Besi Sahar Lamjung
Phone: 066-20118